Radon Pros provides homeowners in Central Ohio free, in-home consultation for radon removal and radon mitigation.
During our visit, your specialist will conduct a Structural Analysis and Design Survey with you, where we'll detail everything you need to successfully mitigate radon in your home. While there, we'll also answer any questions you have about radon, identify where radon may be entering your home, and work with you to customize a written cost quote for a radon mitigation system.
Radon is mitigated by installing a system that will draw the radon soil gas from beneath the foundation and exhaust it outside of the building, far enough away from windows and other openings so that it will not reenter.
A reduction system typically consists of a schedule 40 PVC pipe connected to the soil either through a hole in a slab, via a sump lid connection, or access beneath a plastic sheet in a crawl space. Attached to the pipe is a quiet, continuously operating fan that discharges the radon outdoors.
How this is done is a function of the construction of the home, rather than the radon concentrations that exist. A home with more than one foundation can presents challenges to collecting the soil gas from under all portions of the building. However, talented mitigation contractors typically can connect multiple systems together so that only one fan system is required.
Crawlspace foundations can be a little more costly since the contractor needs to install a high density plastic sheet over the soil and sealed to the walls and then route the piping to the fan. However, the added benefit of reducing moisture in the crawlspace, in addition to reducing radon, can be a real plus.
The EPA recommends that you test your home before putting it on the market and, if necessary, lower your radon levels. Contact Radon Pros to schedule your testing prior to selling your home. Save the test results and all information you have about steps that were taken to fix any problems. This could be a positive selling point. A potential buyer may ask for a new test, especially if: 1) The last test is not recent, e.g. within two years; 2) You have renovated or altered your home since you tested; or 3) The buyer plans to live in a lower level of the house than was tested, such as a basement suitable for occupancy but not currently lived in; 4) State or local government requires disclosure of radon information to buyers.
If you have confirmed that your home has elevated radon levels 4 pico curies per liter (pCi/L) or higher, you should complete the following:
If I find a home with a radon problem, should I look for another home?
If a properly performed test indicates an elevated level of radon in the home you wish to purchase, it is highly possible other homes in the same area will have elevated radon. Perhaps the best news about radon is that radon can be reduced, either before you buy the home, or after you buy it and move in.
Radon testing is simple. Here is a common scenario for potential homebuyers:
Of all the problems a house may have, radon is one of the easiest to identify and fix!
The most common and most effective methods of reducing radon levels in a home or building are active sub-slab depressurization (ASD), and active drain tile depressurization (ADD) systems.
Active sub-slab depressurization is a technique used to collect and remove radon from beneath the concrete floor/slab in the lowest levels of the home. This is done by drilling a suction point (a hole that is typically 4-inches in diameter) through the floor slab, and installing a 4-inch diameter schedule 40 PVC pipe into the suction point. This piping is then run from the suction point to the exterior of the home.
A vent fan is placed in line with the piping on the exterior of the home (or in the attic) to create negative air pressure under the floor slab. The radon and other soil gases are then drawn from beneath the slab and into the system piping where they can be vented safely outside. In many cases, this piping can be run through the home (garage, closet, attic, etc.) and roof to help conceal the system.
When a home has a drain tile waterproofing system around the foundation, the drain tile can facilitate collection of the soil gases, while at the same time functioning as a waterproofing system. The sump pit is covered to create an airtight seal, with the sump pump (if present) being routed through the cover. A hole (suction point) is drilled through the sump pit cover or the concrete slab to access the drain tile/sump pit, and four-inch diameter schedule 40 PVC pipe is placed into the hole, and travels from the suction point to the exterior of the home.